It's a Sido thing...

corona advert eat your heart out

street food, island style

color

low tide

clam diggin'

i found one!

a day in the life of the kuntry folk

Lee's sculpture park

the hot mess that was I

riding tandem through chile pepper farms, vineyards, and rice patties

biggest bowl of soup ever

Session two came to an end on Wednesday and we teachers were given a much deserved four day weekend.  Laine, Jin, Kay and I snuck off to some tiny islands off the west coast of Incheon and had ourselves a genuine experience of life in Korean countryside. 

It was quite a trek getting to Sido- after an hour and a half on the subway, a bus ride, two ferry rides, and another bus ride, we found ourselves 4 hours outside of Seoul in a majestic and quaint agricultural/fishing village. The fog sat low over the green rolling hills, and we were surrounded by tiny islands every which way we looked. Sido's perimeter is fewer than 4 kilomenters and its population can't be more than 100. 

We rented tandem bicycles and cruised around vineyards, chile farms, and rice patties. Not long after, we found ourselves caught in a typhoon and managed to salvage a few inches of dryness after picking up some fancy ponchos on the beach. Surrounded by dragonflies, we cycled up and down rolling hills in the pouring rain.  The island was completely silent except for our laughter which was so uncontrollable, it's likely to have transcended the waves of the Yellow Sea and reached our counterparts in Seoul.   

We ate the most delicious meal of homemade kimchi (the freshest I've tasted since my stay in Korea), seafood soup with homemade noodles, and spicy tofu soup. After a lengthy nap, we ventured out again on our bicycles and made our way to another island- Modo. I managed to take a massive chunk out of my toe riding tandem downhill in a typhoon in flip flops. Bloodshed only made this trip more exotic. We found ourselves jaw dropped when we reached an erotic beach-front sculpture park.  This made me think of Tim and miss Tanner and family that much more.

The rest of the day was spent telling stories, reading, laughing about girly things, and overall having an appreciation for the day and for life.

The following day we hitched a ride, bussed it, took several more ferries, another bus, a taxi, and another ferry to a larger island called Muido. The tide was low and we were able to walk across a sandbar to another island and submerge ourselves in mudflats where we hunted for clams for lunch. We found three in total and I proudly found the largest and most beautiful clam, although it was hardly enough for four...

More of my blood was shed tripping on rocks of all sorts. I was a hot mess.

Our big finale was buying beer and fireworks and sitting on the rocky beach (on Laine's playboy bunny towel that was purchased by her boyfriend while doing UN work in Kosovo) as we waited for our final transportation home. We felt like fraternity boys laughing hysterically on the beach, drinking beer, dancing with sparklers, and shooting off fireworks. We drew quite a crowd of amused cheerers-on. 

Boryeong Mud Festival

THIS WEEKEND WAS SO MUCH FUN!

For the first time, I didn't think about work. I feel completely rejuvenated, a new soul ready to conquer my remaining 5 weeks in Seoul. We met at the express bus terminal at 8am Saturday morning. There, we hopped on a coach and drove 2 hours through the countryside to the Yellow Sea. The drive was gorgeous. Korea outside the city is lush and majestic; I stared outside the window for the entire two hours listening to the pitter patter of rain and gazing at the low mist trapped by the rolling green hills.

Our first stop was not Daecheon Beach, but rather the location where all the mud for the festival is gathered- miles of mud flats, as far as the eye could see. To our surprise, we were given the option to run the annual 5k Boryeong Mud flat race. We stripped down to our bikinis and hopped into the crowd, just in time for the starting gunshot. Running 5k in knee deep mud was brutal, but the glory when all was said and done was completely worth it. 

After the race, our tour group arranged a handful of mud related activities, which of course included mud wrestling. We were divided into coed teams "A" and "B". Needless to say, Laine and I dominated the mud wrestling field. Unfortunately we only have scratches (no photos) to validate our victories.

We quenched our thirst with some Cass then headed to our hotel room (with a view of the Yellow Sea!) Laine, Yerin, Annes and I dropped our backpacks and sprinted into the waters of Daecheon beach. Sand between my toes and salt water up my nose never felt so awesome.  I felt prodigiously awake and aware of life.

The rest of the afternoon was spent painting our bodies in mud, dancing, mud sliding, swimming, eating tempura corn dogs, socializing, and drinking soju/aloe cocktails. The debauchery didn't stop at sunset; around 10pm I headed to the main stage mosh pit and danced to the beats of live Korean hip hop (AMAZING!) Meanwhile, Daecheon Beach was caught in the middle of a typhoon- you can't even imagine the spectacle...

There is simply too much to be said about this weekend and my words could never do the high I experienced appropriate justice.

More photos to come in the next few days...

The bright side of the moon

Tomorrow is Friday and I feel like I'm on top of the world.  My morale is finally on its way back up.

Last night I had my teacher evaluation conference regarding the results of my biology class; allegedly I made the high scoring record book. :)

Today I ate MEXICAN food after work! It wasn't the best, but it was MEXICAN! The evening could not have been more stellar. The clear blue sky afforded a stunning contrast with the high-rise horizon. Beautifully juxtaposed was a substantial, full, and yellow moon.

This weekend I'm heading to the mud festival on Daecheon beach. Wrestling to ensue... 

Tuesday, really?

I think this is going to be the longest week of the entire summer. It's only Tuesday and I'm absolutely knackered.

This Monday I was crowned "teacher of the week" which served to boost my morale ever so slightly.  This evening I also had a meeting with my boss to review the feedback from the student/teacher surveys. My kids loved me! I managed to score significantly above average in nearly every category from "my teacher is knowledgeable" to "my teacher inspires me to learn".

I almost cried today because all I wanted was to sleep, and that's really not an option at this time...

DMZ

Barbed wire and barricaded roads abound, our first stop was a tunnel discovered by South Korea in the 1970's. The tunnel came fewer than 30 miles away from Seoul and is said to be large enough to allow 30,000 soldiers through in one hour, presumably with the intent to invade Seoul. Since then, at least four (and depending on the source, upwards of 14) tunnels have been discovered. Allegedly, NK claims these tunnels to be "defense bunkers" in the event South Korea were to invade NK.  Anyway, we put on our hard hats and penetrated Tunnel Three nearly 150 feet deep, until we reached the barricade just south of the demarkation line.

Our second stop was the observation deck. The rules were strict; "no photos beyond the yellow line". I had the good fortune of having Matt (7 feet tall, almost) extend his limbs into the sky and capture as much as possible. The most interesting observable site was the Gaesong Industrial Complex- an "industrial town" completely uninhabited, but designed to appear progressive to tourists peering in. 

Lastly, we stopped at Dorasan Station- the last train stop before entering North Korea. Although the rail was renovated in 2002 in attempt to make steps toward reuniting North and South Korean families separated by the war in 1950, Kim Jung Il still only permits cargo to enter the country.

The best part was getting two South Korean guards to laugh, a perhaps shameful feat on my part, but completely worth the priceless photos.  The sequence is quite hilarious.

Dr. Fish and Han River Cruise

Dr. Fish!

Mad Cow Protesters

Jerry and I walking to school

Han River Cruise

Week two of session two is over! It was a tough week but by and large it went well. Though sleep was exiguous (that was for you Elyse), I'm tolerating it well, and am proud of my body for proving so resilient! I am also proud to mention that my reading class ranked number one last week in the "gold" category for its compiled high test scores, fewest tardies, and best behavior!

On Wednesday evening, Laine, her mother and I went to Dr. Fish Cafe. The idea is that there are healing properties that come as a result of having hundreds of little fish nibble away at the dead skin on one's feet. Not quite sure if it's true, but it was nonetheless exhilarating and unique. The video is quite hilarious and even has sound! 

Last night Laine, her mother, and my roomie Yerin went on a Han river cruise. It was so serene and did good things for my psyche. There is something truly majestic about water reflecting city lights.

Today I'm going to do some preparation, hopefully get a manicure, and get to bed early. Tomorrow will be a big day as I'm heading to the demilitarized zone. I believe I'll even be able to go in to North Korea very briefly.... details to follow! 

Sunday in the City

How is it that the weekends pass so quickly?

It's Sunday, just before noon. It's bloody humid today, the worst it's been since my arrival.

Last night Jerry and I walked to COEX (Seoul's famously ENORMOUS underground Mall) to see the new Will Smith/Charlize Theron film, Hancock.  It was entertaining and kept us occupied for two hours, but didn't seem to impact me much beyond that. The best part of the night was walking down the streets, beer in hand, knowing that we were well within the parameters of the law (this is a culture that LOVES its drink... there is debauchery, belligerence, and vomit nearly EVERY night of the week). Gross.

There was a very interesting movie promotion outside of coex. A tres ominous faux scene of a UFO crash landing, complete with police tape. I'm speculating it's for the Cloverfield sequel.

This morning I went to the grocery store and purchased my usual assortment of fruits and vegetables, cereal, soy, spicy tuna, and vegetable crackers. I am now parked comfortably at 7M, about to commence my week's preparation. 

I've included a picture of the outre Christian church immediately outside my apartment. It is an ever so odd juxtaposition against the 30-story financial buildings of my hood... 

Week 1, Session 2 Reflections

free time

Week one of session two is finally over. This could very well have been the most difficult week of my life, and I have been so stressed, so sleep deprived, that it has taken a physical toll on my body. I have had a nasty cold for a week now, that has recently evolved into a hacking cough. I will be good to my body over the weekend and try to nurse myself back to health so that I can take on next week. Hopefully it will continue to get easier as I become used to feeling like poop and having no personal life.

I do not wish this to bear semblance to a complaint, for I have no regrets for having taken on this job. I have learned. A LOT. Everything from grammar, to Korean culture, to insight into myself. This experience has put many things into perspective for me, and for that I am grateful.

Last night I was paid for the first time in 6 weeks. It was not exactly what I expected, but I suppose that was to be expected. Apparently I will be returned half of the funds that are taken out for taxes/pension upon return to the states.

Last night I went to the jjimjiibang, a Korean bath house replete with pools of varying temperature, several saunas, a sleeping area, dvd bang, restaurant, etc. Some people spend entire days at these places because there is literally no reason to leave. Laine's mother is visiting so the three of us stripped down to our birthday suits and enjoyed the freedom of being in the nude. It was incredibly pure, natural, and freeing. We also paid an extra 20,000 won (twenty bucks) to have a twenty minute scrub. When I opened my eyes, I found myself surrounded by sloughs of skin; pretty nasty, although it made me feel a new degree of clean. I left feeling rejuvenated and appropriately pampered. 

I'm at the seven monkeys staring out the window watching the monsoon. It is so luxurious to have the time to do nothing but stare out a window watching rain fall.

Today I slept until 9am. I am overjoyed.

I have been corresponding with Kalmoe and am particularly inclined to try and make my way to Beijing. My last weekend in Korea is a three day weekend, and although tickets are upwards of $800 (for a two hour flight!), I am oh-so close and fear I may regret it forever should I not see her (along with many of my other fellow UW alums) compete. 

I've posted a picture of my new favorite lunch. I make my own kimbap roles. With wild rice, spicy tuna and kim (seaweed), I've got a delicious roll of fun.

That's all for now. Miss you all very much...