Thursday, October 6, 2011

The New Digs


When I transplanted life as I knew it to Italy, I moved into the apartment Giulio has called home for the past six years. Though its great potential struck me immediately (supreme location, high ceilings, big rooms, lots of light), according to my research, the apartment had not been cleaned since the cradle of civilization. And by "not been cleaned" I mean that the photos released of Osama Bin Laden's postmortem bedroom looked strikingly similar to ours. So, I unleashed my tyrannical OCD mania on Giulio and after a period of hysterical crying, trashing, cleaning, and shopping, we finally arrived at an aesthetic state worthy of hosting many a dinner party. Presently, there's even a loaf of homemade rosemary olive bread in the oven. 

living room before
living room after





our bedroom before
our bedroom after
   



La Dolce Visa

I fell in love and moved to Italy. Glamorous? YES.
Always unicorns and rainbows? Definitely not.


This piece details the process you must undergo to obtain a study visa in Italy. I have purposefully left out the manic episodes I suffered doing things the wrong way, and opted to focus on how YOU should do it should you find yourself at the beginning of this onerous journey. Gather as much information from blogs or any other resource you can. Talk to people who have already gone through the process if you can. And keep in mind that every Italian Consulate has it's own unique set of required documents, deadlines, etc, and so you must take responsibility to get in touch with the consulate of your jurisdiction to find out precisely what is expected of you. The experience herein reflects my escapade with the San Francisco Consulate.

Before you can apply for a study visa, you need to have a legalized translation of your degrees. This is called a Dichiarazione di Valore and as I discovered, it is a separate process from the visa. Do not email the visa office asking questions about the dichiarzione di valore, (you idiot). Instead, email the consulate's "legal department" and request a PDF of their requirements for obtaining the DV. 

The first thing I did was obtain an apostille for my high school and college diplomas and transcripts. To do this, you must contact your secretary of state in the state that issued the diploma to determine their exact requirements. For me it meant a California apostille for high school as well as a Washington apostille for university. These states differed slightly. For Washington I had to include the following:
  • original sealed transcript from my University and original diploma as is (neither notarized)
  • a check for $15 per document ($30 total) made payable to the secretary of state
  • a cover letter including the name of the school and country requesting the documents, my contact information, and information on where the documents should be mailed after they are apostilled
  • a pre-paid Fed Ex air bill so they could return the documents to me.  
For California, I had to get a notarized COPY of my high school diploma and a notarized official transcript. Furthermore, the consulate required a notary public to witness the REGISTRAR's signature on both the (opened) official transcript and the diploma (which means your school either needs to have a notary public on site, or you need to call a traveling notary public to come to the school). Written on the official high school transcript, it must say:
" I __________________, Registrar, certify that these are official high school transcripts from ______________ school/university."
On the COPY of the diploma it must say:
"I __________________, Registrar, certify that this is a copy of        (your name)    _ diploma from _______________ school/university."
Below each sworn statement the registrar must sign his name in the presence of the notary and a Jurat form must be stapled to each document separately. After this, you can send the notarized documents to the secretary of state's notary department. Include a cover letter (with the same information required for the WA letter above), a check in the amount of $20 per document, and a FedEx prepaid return envelope/air bill for them to return your documents.


The apostille should take roughly two weeks to arrive back in your hands.


While you're waiting for your apostilles to return, you must complete a typed translation of all your coursework. In my case, this meant a translation of (only) my university transcripts, formatted in the precise way as the original transcript, and a translation of both my high school and college diplomas. The translation needs to be accurate but it does not need to be done by a professional, nor notarized. And please make sure the translation is in Italian, (you idiot). 

Once your apostilles return and your translations have been completed, you are ready to apply for your dichiarazione di valore. Send the apostilled packets exactly as they were received (with the fucking staple right through your college diploma) along with the translation of your diplomas/transcripts. I was also asked to include a cover letter, two 2x2 passport photos, three additional official university transcripts, a completed "Domanda di Preiscrizione" (FORM A, which I found and printed from the Consulate website) and a prepaid return airbill (through USPS because according to the consulate, the other couriers are unreliable). Keep in mind that some consulates may only accept applications for DV's for schools within their jurisdiction. This means that if you went to a high school and college in different states, you may have to send them to different consulates (and it sucks to be you). CALL THEM if you're unsure. Once they're sent, wait 4-6 weeks, but keep in touch from time to time so they don't forget about you.

So now you have received your dichiarazione di valore. Breathe because you just completed the hardest part!  Now you're ready to apply for the visa. Keep in mind that you MUST do this in person. I had to fly back early and cut off five weeks of my travels in Europe just to show up at the bloody consulate in person. Also be aware of deadlines and their hours of operation for visas. Some consulates require appointments, some only take walk-ins. If your consulate does not require an appointment, prepare to get there one hour early so you can get to the front of the line. Either way, make sure you have everything ready- you only want to do this once, trust me. Bring the following with you:

1. Completed application form with a passport photo (2x2 inches) glued to the front. You can download this online.
2. Passport or official travel document (original and copy) valid for at least three months beyond the validity date of the visa requested. The passport must have a blank page available for the visa to be affixed.
3. Driver's License or State ID (original and copy) proving residence in that particular consular jurisdiction.
4. Alien Registration Card (original and copy) if you are a non-US citizen.
5. Letter of acceptance from the university, in Italian (original plus one copy). The letter (on official letterhead, signed and sealed by an official representative) must include the following:

  • name of the student
  • complete name and address of the school in Italy
  • the exact period of study including day/month/year and weekly hours
  • a statement that tuition, room and board, and health insurance will be covered, or that the university will help the student arrange these things

6. Affidavit of health insurance coverage (download from consulate website), signed and notarized
7. Proof of Funds. If you are self sufficient you must request a letter from your bank (on official letterhead, signed by a bank official) that states the exact balance of your account. You must be able to demonstrate that you have a minimum of $900.00/month for the extent of your visa (up to one year) in your account. If you are financially dependent, then you must provide an affidavit of support (downloadable form) signed by your sugar mama and notarized, as well as an original, signed letter from the bank stipulating the exact balance (and it must be recently dated).
8. Proof of adequate lodging for the entirety of your stay. This could be in the form of a lease or a signed and notarized letter from a family member with whom you will stay, or hotel reservation, etc. 
9. Proof of roundtrip flight reservations. (I only had to show my reservation for the way there, but some consulates may be different). 

Once you leave, your visa will arrive probably two days before your intended date of departure, making for a particularly sweaty week up until your departure. But you will get it and life will be GOOD!

Additional Information
I was not allowed to apply fewer than 30 days or more than 90 days prior to my departure to Italy.

You must go through the consulate office appropriate to your jurisdiction. Not every state has a visa office which means your consulate office sees residents not only of your state, but of your specific city/county. 

Be overly nice to any employee you interact with by phone, email, or in person. They are, as I have witnessed, understaffed so make sure they remember you by your kindness and not your inclination to act as an asshole. Keep in mind that although they are terribly inefficient, they DO have something that you need and that they can find any reason to deny you of this thing (or pull some strings in your favor).

Take advantage of emailing and calling and if you have someone who can speak on your behalf in Italian, it will make a difference on how fast you can get things done.


In boca al lupo!

Sunday, August 14, 2011

Parmigiana di Melanzane

What You Need
for the sauce 
  • a bunch of chopped, homegrown tomatoes (or two large cans of diced tomatoes if you're desperate)
  • two small cans of tomato paste
  • five (or more!) cloves of chopped garlic
  • two chopped onions (i used shallots because it's what i had)
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • a few teaspoons of dried crushed red pepper
  • two tablespoons italian seasoning or oregano 
  • two tablespoons dried basil (or fresh leaves if you prefer)
  • a few teaspoons of salt/pepper to taste
  • olive oil


for the eggplant
  • one big ass eggplant, cut into 1/2 inch slices
  • 3 eggs
  • a few tablespoons of water
  • 1 cup breadcrumbs seasoned with italian seasoning or dried oregano
  • 3 tablespoons grated parmesan
  • three logs of shredded low-moisture mozzarella (or two packs from TJ's)
  • olive oil


preparation
saute a few tablespoons of olive oil, onion, and garlic on medium heat for 5 minutes. Add remaining ingredients (for the sauce) and cook on medium for as long as possible. the longer the better. while it is cooking, prepare the eggplant. whisk eggs and water together with a fork. Combine breadcrumbs with parmesan. Dip each eggplant slice in the egg mixture and then in the breadcrumb mixture. Cook eggplant in batches in a large skillet over medium heat, roughly four minutes per side in olive oil. Remove from pan and layer eggplant, mozzarella, and sauce. Bake for 35 minutes at 375 degrees. Sprinkle with remainder of mozzarella and a few tablespoons of grated parmesan and bake for ten more minutes or until the cheese turns slightly brown. Buon appetito!


for the sauce
before stacking
forgot to snap a photo of the final presentation, so, here's this

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Gli Fiori

"The customer is always right"-  an indoctrinated attitude held by most Americans and an old adage perhaps completely foreign to most Italians. Recently, I experienced a hybridization of these dogmas.

Giulio just had a birthday which gave me another opportunity to consider how grateful I am that he is alive by commodifying my gratitude with something purchasable. Unfortunately we were forced to spend the day on separate hemispheres so I was limited to what I could send (Italian customs are notoriously greedy).

I opted for flowers and ordered them through an American company that commissions local Italian florists. I decided on a bouquet of wild orchids as they happen to be my favorite flower and are also of sentimental value to Giulio and I. To indulge a little extra in highlighting my affection, the package was also meant to include a "box of goodies" and a bouquet of balloons. 

The afternoon of Giulio's birthday, he called to thank me for the roses. "ROSES? what!?" Giulio is the first to know that roses happen to be, like, my least favorite flower (next to carnations). He himself even mentioned that he didn't realize they were from me until he opened the card because I would never send him roses (except maybe as a punishment). Trying not to sound confused and frustrated, I asked Giulio about the balloons and he naturally replied by saying "what balloons?" In my imagined glimpse of the imminent future, I likened myself to a violently angry parent publicly ruining his child's birthday by being overly fanatic at Chuck E. Cheese's; trying to remain calm,  I inquired into his "box of goodies", at which point he dangled a cheap plastic bag of conspicuously shitty candies in front of the skype video cam. I was horrified, so I wrote a letter. (a precautionary note- as it is my preferred intention to story-tell rather than be a consumer critic, I have changed the signature names of the flower company.)





Dear Sir or Madam,

I recently ordered flowers to be delivered to my boyfriend in Milan today. I have had several positive experiences with your company on previous occasions and so, have remained a loyal customer.

Today I was surprised to see that what my boyfriend received was not at all what I ordered. I paid for a bouquet of exotic orchids and Giulio instead received 8 pink roses. This was the first assault as he and I both know how much I have always disliked this particular flower. Secondly, the "box of goodies" that was to be delivered with the flowers was offensively cheap and reminded me of something that would be used to stuff a pinata. Thirdly, I spent fifteen extra dollars for this package to include a bouquet of balloons and he did not receive even one single deflated or inflated balloon.

I would like to continue my relationship with your company and so am asking you kindly to please remedy this issue in the way you best see fit.

Regards,
Liv


This is what I received in return:


Dear Liv


Thank you for sending us a picture of the flowers and chocolates delivered to Giulio. We have forwarded the picture to the outlet and will keep you updated once we hear back from them.


Warm regards,
Flora

The following day, this arrived:










According to Giulio, the above card (mirror imaged as taken by the camera on his laptop) was a "hardly intelligible, hand written piece of toilet paper with: 'we apologize and we hope that you like the bouquet this time', as to suggest that I was, in fact, acting spoiled." 


So, as you might expect, I wrote another letter:


Dear Flora,

Thank you for your efforts following through with this matter. 

Attached are more pictures of what I suppose to be a reflection of your commissioned florist trying to ameliorate. Yesterday they sent a new bouquet, balloons, and an apology letter- something that should theoretically elicit my gratitude. Unfortunately, the replacement bouquet was still not orchids, rather gerbera daisies saturated with baby's breath (another flower I happen to dislike), three miniature inflated balloons and three non-inflated balloons (a far cry from the usual helium ones to which I am accustomed and are featured on your website), and an apology letter addressed to "Guido" instead of Giulio that sassily read "we hope you enjoy the bouquet this time".

I would very much like to keep relying on your company which is why I am once again requesting your attention to this matter.

Sincerely,
Liv


After several days, I received their final attempt to remedy:


Dear Liv


We are extremely sorry as the flower arrangement delivered to Giulio was substituted, the box of goodies was offensive and the balloons were not delivered. The redelivery was also no upto your expectations. While we cannot make up for the lost moment, we have issued you a partial refund of 50% on this order. Credit will reflect in your account within 3-4 business days. In addition to this, we are also offering you a discount of $10 for your next order with us. This discount is valid till 3rd of September 2011. We are committed to you as a valued patron, and we hope that taking these immediate corrective steps will regain your confidence in us.


Warm regards,
Flora




I ended it there as I could understand that this was as far as I would get with them. Through  this, I have arrived at the conclusion that in the space where Italy meets America, the customer is always 50% right, 50% of the time. 

Friday, July 8, 2011

Al Pont de Ferr

Giulio and I stepped out for dinner in the Navigli area of Milan last night. Heeding the advice of a trusted friend, we entered the unassuming Al Pont de Ferre, delicately situated on the canal's bank. Given what we had been told about the aesthetic and gustatory quality of the food, we were both surprised by the unpretentious decor- it struck me as a typical Italian osteria where one could acquire a traditionally tasty bowl of spaghetti, no more; I assure you the ambience was the only thing standard about this place.

First surprise- a mandatory glass of champagne on the house. I loved this touch, made me feel far more important than I am.

We had been sufficiently prepped for this restaurant being an experimental and gastronomic sensation, so when a BAG of water arrived at our table, we grinned childishly at each other, reveling in the unconventionality. Eager to pour, Giulio picked up the bag and aimed it toward my glass. I stopped him, insisting that I first capture this still life with a photo. As I was doing so, the waiter appeared with the bottle of Prosecco we had ordered, and poured me a small glass to taste.

this is not your water, waiter


I sip and smell, agree that I like it (see, it's the best Prosecco I've ever had), he smiles, then places our bottle into the bag of chilled water. Prosecco stays fresh and we successfully avoid a faux pas. Waiter leaves, Giulio and I look at each other with bulging eyes, then erupt into laughter.

prosecco in the bag


We order fix prixe- he from the seven course menu, I from the five course menu. I won't reveal all the private sensorial delights of our experience, but I will say that the food is impeccably presented, explosively delicious, and that the ambience is impressively modest - so much that by the end of our twelfth course and third hour of dining, we were  relaxed enough to drink from the water bag anyway... as Giulio brilliantly puts it- poor table manners are acceptable so long as you know they're poor. Buon appetito.

candied red onion with goat cheese

beef filet and foie-gras with plum

fish, foie gras & citrus mosaic


homemade pea-shaped pasta filled with peas

pan fried fillet with parsley pesto

rabbit kidneys with scallops and Castelmagno cheese


winter chocolate tree with almond mousse & pistacchio

grappa and licorice liqueur, on the house
seasonal changes by way of dessert (stupid-ass video i made)
music by Vivaldi

Al Pont de Ferr
osteria con cucina
55 - Ripa di Porta Ticinese -55
Milano
tel. +39 02.89406277
dalle 12.30 alle 14.15
dalle 20.00 alle 01.00